European secondary textile sector ‘on the brink of collapse’

Recyclers are warning that the industry responsible for sorting discarded textiles for reuse and recycling across Europe is on the brink of collapse.

EuRIC, the umbrella organisation representing a range of secondary sectors, says urgent alarms are ringing out in the Netherlands, Germany, and the UK.

Without immediate intervention, it argues, the crisis will escalate, causing irreversible economic and environmental damage.

At risk

A combination of rising costs, falling sales due to intense competition and legislative gaps are putting valuable reusable textile resources and the circular economy at risk, according to EuRIC.

It points out that a glut of unsold second-hand clothing and inadequate business models for recycling mean discarded textiles are unlikely to be reused or recycled.

‘The prospect of incineration becoming the only remaining option if sorting discarded textiles becomes financially unviable is deeply alarming,’ says Mariska Boer, president of EuRIC’s textiles branch.

‘When second-hand clothing can no longer be supplied to countries that depend on it, this will have a massive economic impact both locally and within the EU.’

Measures sought

EuRIC has previously called for urgent EU-wide action to prevent the collapse of the textile reuse and recycling sector. It argues supportive EPR schemes under the revised Waste Framework Directive should be implemented.

Green public procurement measures, setting mandatory recycled content in textile products, and better design regulations are also seen as essential to stimulate demand for recycled materials, encourage sustainable practices and ensure the viability of the textile recycling industry.