Textiles head EPR queue

Policy makers around the world are coming round to extended producer responsibility schemes for textiles, ensuring brands and manufacturers pay a fair share of the costs of managing end-of-life clothing and fabrics.

The used textile industry is on the cusp of significant transformation, driven by recent policy agreements and strategic initiatives aimed at advancing circularity. The European Union (EU) has reached a provisional agreement to implement harmonised extended producer responsibility (EPR) regulations across member states, marking a pivotal shift in the management of textile waste.

Meanwhile, the United Kingdom has established a Circular Economy Taskforce which is expected to prioritise textiles.

On 19 February, the EU Council and Parliament provisionally agreed to binding targets to reduce textile waste, with producers required to finance collection, sorting and recycling. The legislation places particular emphasis on the fast fashion sector.

Harmonisation of EPR across EU member states is intended to create a unified framework, ensuring a consistent approach to textile waste management. Producers will face eco-modulated fees based on their products’ environmental performance, incentivising sustainable design and recyclability.

Additionally, the directive seeks to limit the export of textile waste under the guise of reuse, ensuring adherence to high environmental standards both within and outside the EU.

California dreaming

Beyond Europe, several regions are adopting EPR schemes for textiles, signalling a global shift towards sustainable practices in the industry. In the United States, California has taken a pioneering step by enacting the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024. Signed into law in September 2024, this legislation establishes the nation’s first mandatory EPR programme for textiles.

Manufacturers, brands, retailers and distributors must participate in a stewardship programme to manage the recycling and reuse of apparel and certain textile products. Full implementation is expected by July 2028.

Chile is also progressing towards implementing EPR for textiles. The country introduced a law in 2016, initially covering six product categories. Plans are underway to include textiles, with the regulatory process set to begin this year and targets anticipated by 2029.

These developments reflect a clear global trend towards adopting policies that support the reuse and recycling of textiles. As more regions implement EPR schemes, the textile industry is encouraged to innovate in product design and waste management, fostering a more sustainable and circular economy worldwide.

Stakeholder view

The EU Joint Research Centre (JRC) continues to work with stakeholders to establish clear end-of-waste criteria for textiles. The third stakeholder workshop on the EU’s End-of-Waste Criteria for textiles in mid-February brought together industry representatives, policymakers and environmental organisations.

Stakeholders have been invited to provide feedback on the JRC’s latest draft report by 11 April. Clear, legally defined end-of-waste criteria will encourage investment in recycling infrastructure, provide regulatory certainty, and foster confidence in secondary textile markets.

UK circularity

In November 2024, the UK Government launched its Circular Economy Taskforce, an independent advisory group tasked with developing a circular economy strategy for England. The textile industry expects textiles to be designated as a priority material within this framework.

The UK’s Textile Recycling Association is advocating for policy support to facilitate circular business models including: EPR implementation, product design standards and mandatory recycled content.

Despite progress, challenges remain in the transition to a fully circular textile economy:

• Infrastructure Development: greater investment is needed in collection, sorting and recycling facilities
• Technological innovation: advanced recycling solutions must be scaled up to improve the quality and economic viability of secondary textiles
• Consumer engagement: public awareness and participation in sustainable textile consumption and disposal practices needs strengthening.

The industry is at a critical juncture, with policy developments laying the foundation for a sustainable and circular future. The effectiveness of these initiatives will depend on the collective commitment of all stakeholders to drive systemic change within the sector.