Sector-wide call for textile EPR in the UK

UK textile recyclers have welcomed an industry wide call for a mandatory extended producer responsibility (EPR) scheme for the sector.

Government advisory body WRAP, in partnership with stakeholders from across the textiles value chain, has published a blueprint setting out 10 essential recommendations for the UK Government with the list headed by the need for an EPR scheme.

‘The UK’s used textiles sector is under severe strain,’ WRAP warns. ‘Rising volumes of low-quality textiles are flooding the market, while domestic infrastructure and economic viability lag far behind what is needed to manage these materials. Without intervention, large parts of the sector could collapse, with serious consequences for local authorities, charities and the public.’

Growing costs

WRAP’s research indicates that, if this situation continues, the cost to local authorities alone could rise from £73 million (EUR 84 million) per year to £200 million by 2035. Such costs would likely be passed onto the public through higher municipal taxes, while charities could be hit as unsellable donations increase and disposal costs rise.

Alan Wheeler, ceo of the Textile Recycling Association (TRA), has welcomed the blueprint and the clear expectation that a textiles EPR should be introduced through legislation as part of the Government’s forthcoming Circular Economy Roadmap.

Clarity call

‘TRA members are currently operating in extremely challenging market conditions, with falling values, rising costs and increasing regulatory pressure placing real strain on the UK’s second-hand clothing collection, sorting and reuse sector,’ he points out.

‘Early policy clarity, alongside interim measures that recognise the essential role this sector plays in delivering reuse and waste prevention today, will be critical to ensuring that the infrastructure EPR is intended to support is still in place when a mandatory scheme comes into force.’

Wheeler notes that the success of any EPR scheme ultimately depends on the detail of how it is designed and implemented. ‘It is vital that this next phase is shaped through continued, open engagement with all parts of the value chain.’