Textile recyclers discuss levy with European officials

Archiv – A delegation from the European textiles recovery industry finally met with the European Commission in January to discuss the severe problems facing the sector.A delegation from the European textiles recovery industry finally met with the European Commission in January to discuss the severe problems facing the sector. European collectors and processors of textiles recyclables had been requesting the meeting for several months.
Topics covered included: the ’waste’ definition and the resultant administrative and financial burden on the secondary textiles sector; the shipment of second-hand clothing and recovered textiles within and outside the EU; and the feasibility of introducing an EU textile recycling levy. It is thought that a charge could be imposed by new clothing producers and importers on their goods, with funds raised via this ‘€˜green tax’€™ being used to finance the ever-increasing costs of reclaiming second-hand clothing. These costs have risen to such an extent that they are now severely threatening the financial viability of the industry.
Until recently, 60% of all second-hand clothing collected by the industry was suitable to be sold for re-use, according to the BIR world recycling organisation. It now estimates the figure to be around only 40%. This means the growing cost of disposing of textile residues and low-grade material can no longer be covered by the income from sales of higher-quality material. This situation endangers the survival of the sector if no solution is found at EU level, it is maintained.
Furthermore, secondary textiles – and, in particular, second-hand clothing – are still considered to be ‘€˜green’€™ waste when shipped across borders, thereby imposing administrative burdens and commercial handicaps.
The increase in the volume of poor-quality clothing being sent for recycling can be attributed primarily to the surge in imports of new, cheap but poorer-quality clothing from the Far East. These products are being sold in European stores at prices comparable to those of second-hand clothing available from charity shops. These goods tend to wear out much more quickly and, by the time they find their way to a recycling bank or charity shop, are often totally unsuitable for re-use.
The European Commission has officially decided to assess the possibility of determining criteria to define when waste ceases to be waste in the framework of their communication on the thematic strategy for the prevention of waste and recycling. In addition, Marianne Klingbeil, Head of Unit of DG Environment G. 4 (Production, Consumption and Waste), clearly acknowledged that second-hand clothing processed for re-use was not within the scope of the waste definition. She invited EU operators to file a complaint via their national federations or the BIR if they were encountering problems in this respect with their competent authorities.

BIR’€™s Textile Division President Frithjof W. Schepke: ‘€˜The EU should introduce a European textile recycling levy.’€™