Textiles need WFD revision now, says sector

Effective EPR schemes and a level playing field in the revised Waste Framework Directive (WFD) to strengthen Europe’s circular textile economy is being urged by prominent players in the sector.  

EuRIC Textiles, European waste manager umbrella group FEAD and retailer Decathlon have published a joint position paper stressing the need for consistency in the WFD to maximise effectiveness.

They argue that participation from all relevant operators and uniform application of the new rules are essential to prevent loopholes.

Global challenges

The paper argues that revision of the WFD offers a unique opportunity for greater harmonisation across the EU and improved sector competitiveness, particularly as the textile sorting and recycling industry faces global challenges like the war in Ukraine, logistical issues in Africa and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

Key requests include a level playing field for all relevant actors involved in the EPR scheme, setting concrete criteria and distinguishing between ‘used’ and ‘waste’ textiles.

FEAD, EuRIC Textiles, and Decathlon urge EU negotiators to swiftly agree on a targeted revision of the WFD, establishing well-functioning EPR schemes that incentivise investments in infrastructure and enhance the traceability of discarded textiles.

Little recycling

FEAD president Claudia Mensi points out that five million tonnes of clothing is discarded each year in the EU, only 1% is recycled back into new clothing. ‘This means that textile recycling is today an environmental imperative and an economic opportunity, for which industry and policy makers must work together to improve the status quo’.

Julia Ettinger, EuRIC’s secretary general, added: ‘Today, the priority is not just improving and scaling up textile sorting and recycling in Europe but also protecting and sustaining existing infrastructure. European companies, vital to making circularity a reality, urgently need support, and efficient EPR schemes are critical to achieving this.’

Opportunity

Decathlon’s sustainability director Emilie Muffet believes the Waste Framework Directive offers a unique opportunity to boost the development of an innovative and efficient textile waste industry.

‘All actors in the textile ecosystem must work together to close the loop and go circular. Smartly designed EPR schemes can help us to achieve this goal.’